Emberá Village Overnight Tour

Posted By : blackrice
Introduction:
Growing up with National Geographic on my suburban American coffee table, tribal life always held a special fascination for me. The exotic imagery of topless women, loin-clothed men, intricate tattoos, and vibrant adornments, combined with the unique community structure and absence of modern technology, fueled my desire to explore the other side of the world and reconnect with our roots. After extensive research, my partner and I decided to book a tour with Embera Village Tours, and Shirley, the American woman who runs the website, was instrumental in arranging our visit.

Booking Process and Cost Breakdown:
Six settlements are situated near Panama, with the second furthest being Embera Puru and one more (further still) that doesn't accept visitors. The four closest to town can get swamped with dozens of day tourists and cruise-ship travelers. Embera Puru seemed the most authentic for us.

The website displayed captivating photos of joyous children, busy villagers, and centuries-old traditions. Excited about the photographic opportunities (we’re both street photographers) and eager to immerse ourselves in tribal life, we were willing to pay the high price for this unique adventure and life-long dream. The total cost for two nights amounted to $1,300, part of that sum being an additional $240 charge ($120 per person) for visiting Embera Puru due to the ‘challenges posed by low river levels.’ We paid a deposit of $325 and settled the remaining $970 upon our arrival. It is important to note that the tour company likely retained the deposit while the remaining $970 was distributing among the guide, the tribe, and the taxi driver. We have no way of knowing how much ultimately went to the village.

Arrival and Initial Impressions:
Our guide, Jose, picked us up from our hotel in his small car and drove us approximately an hour and a half along roads that got increasingly worse. We eventually switched to a 4-wheel drive truck, which took us about 30 minutes to reach the river. 30 minutes after a fun walk through the mud (bring disposable shoes!), two male Embera villagers arrived in their longboats, and we embarked on our river journey. While the water levels were low in three places, the journey was smooth, leaving us questioning the justification for the extra charge. We noticed plenty of other longboats carrying people along our journey and throughout our stay. What was the cause for the high price increase?! (Silly tourist tax I guess) ;)

Upon arrival at the village, we realized that the experience was about to diverge wildly from our expectations. There was no welcome or anything. I wasn’t expecting a mai Thai, a lei place around our necks or Mr. Roarke saying ‘welcome, welcome’ - but we were just meekly marched up from the rocky beach and shown our accommodation with no fanfare.

The villagers' houses, built on stilts approximately three meters high, surrounded us. As tourists, our accommodation consisted of a flat platform with a thatched roof adjacent to the the meeting hall (which was as impressive as our lodgings were unimpressive) . From our vantage point, we could see three other huts. However, as a hint to future travelers - don’t linger on the sight of the three huts as you will soon discover it will encompass your only visual stimulation throughout your stay.

Living in a Fishbowl:
Most of the huts in the village had a porch with a kitchen (sand stove) area attached, followed by a walled-off living area for the families. Colorful fabric hung in various places, adding aesthetic appeal and perhaps providing privacy. Unfortunately, we did not have such luxuries. Instead, we spent our time on a raised platform without any semblance of privacy. Strangely, the initial concern about exploiting the tribe faded, and we began to feel like the animals in a zoo. At any time, the villagers could look out from their private huts and observe the foreigners, turning our experience into a performance on a theater stage.

Limited Interaction and Activities:
Shortly after our arrival, the village leader greeted us, and a woman showcased the tribe's handicraft abilities, answering our questions about tattoo washes and how she made the handicrafts. However, these interactions marked the extent of our engagement with the villagers. For the remainder of our stay, we were left largely to ourselves, with meals being prepared for us three times a day.

This lack of interaction proved to be our least favorite aspect of the experience. Contrary to the photos on the website, depicting joyful children playing and a link suggesting items to bring for them, we found ourselves with little opportunity to interact, play, or take photographs. We had brought bags of individually wrapped candies, a frisbee, balls, a deflated soccer ball, balloons, bubble wands, and other toys, envisioning a vibrant exchange with the children. However, our hopes were pretty much hammered as we were taken to the schoolhouse later in the day to drop off our gifts and then promptly ushered out. We never saw the children again.

The village offered minimal attractions. We could ascend a hill for a view of the schoolhouse or take a 20-meter stroll to the river. During long stretches of six hours, we would be fortunate to spot two villagers in the distance or observe a child descending and ascending a ladder. Despite the village supposedly comprising 28 houses and a population of 128, we encountered fewer than 10 houses and a mere fraction of the population - and only when it came time to sell us goods.

Questionable Authenticity:
The village's authenticity turned out to be a mix of traditional and modern elements. While a schoolhouse existed, with mandatory attendance for children and a teacher sent from the city on weekdays, it hardly resembled a traditional tribal education. Moreover, electricity had infiltrated the village to varying degrees. Some parts of the village were connected by electric cables spanning the river, while others relied on flashlights for illumination. One house on the left was even full lit up with electricity! There was a double freezer for the tribe. Although we enjoyed observing the preparation of our meals, the absence of visible crops or livestock, except for banana, lime, and mango trees, raised suspicions that the village may have become reliant on their weekly grocery store trips.

Additionally, the vibrant fabric that adorned the village was sourced from China, raising doubts about its authenticity. Although our guide claimed that the villagers had designed the fabric, its distinct Asian motifs, such as lotus flowers and birthday cake designs, seemed incongruous with the rainforest environment. We couldn't help but question the validity of these claims - but who knows.

We waited all day, and nothing happened, darkness fell and we had 12hr to swing in the hammock or take turns laying on a mattress covered in plastic (which made it very hot). There were no lights and that’s fine, this is what we came for. I’m not bemoaning the lack of comforts - in part this very long night was our favorite part of the trip!

In the morning we woke up at first light and were told that later the tribe would like to show us some of their handicrafts. Cool. We were both interested in any silver, beads or hand-wrought jewelry they might have made. A few hours later - inside the main hall 8 or 9 families unpacked their sacks of items and laid them out. Note - at this time being the only visitors here, there’s quite a bit of pressure to buy. No overt pressure - just the kind of pressure that comes from having 14 villagers watching you as you walk from table to table.

Underwhelming Handicrafts and Souvenirs:
There were a few quick dances and beating of drums, then the shopping began. Note: we both felt simply horrible for not being able to buy something from each other the tables.. We felt like we were letting them down, but the prices were just too high.

I’ve often found when visiting a place that makes something - looms, shoes, carvings etc - they’re eager to show you where these things are made and show off their artisanship. This didn’t happen in the village, which increased my wariness.

I asked Jose (our guide) and he assured us these were all made in the village. Cool. One table had some turtles that were carved out of nuts - the guy looked me in the eye and said ‘I carved this’ - and it was pretty cool. Another table the woman said my family makes these (wooden statues), woven bowels, bracelets etc. We ended up buying about $70 worth of stuff - a bowl ($12), a jaguar pendant ($20), bracelets ($5), fabric ($20), beads ($10).

After shopping, we had a quick internal discussion and found the experience for us ended promptly at 6:30pm, when the sun set - and we were left with 12 hours in the dark, sweating and swinging in hammocks. We decided to give our second night pass and head back to the city a day early as there was nothing more to experience here. I jumped in the river (on my bucket list) then dried off - and we repeated the trip down the river (no problems and lots of boats) and back into the city (oddly totally exhausted).

Sadly, the next day in the city - we perused the souvenir shop indeed we found almost every single item that was in the village - often for 50% less. That $20 Jaguar pendant that was hand carved by the villager? There were a dozen of them in many shops for $7. The hand weaved bowls? Absolutely everywhere. The hand designed fabric? Half price hanging in the shops with many of the same lotus flower. Wooden statues of animals that are guide assured us were ‘amazing and beautiful’ - were again fractions of the tribal price and omnipresent.. (sigh)

Conclusion:
Our visit to Embera Puru Village ultimately proved to be a disappointment. The lack of interaction with the tribe members, limited activities, and questionable authenticity left us feeling dissatisfied. If you don’t make anything in the village, that’s fine - but please don’t lie to our face. While the boat ride and the night spent in hammocks had their charm, the overall trip did not live up to our expectations. Our guide failed to provide meaningful engagement, and the tribe members appeared uninterested in interacting with us. As a result, we returned home with very few photographs, save for some shots of thatched huts, dogs, and plenty of chickens.

Worth a day trip at best, and skip Embera Village Tours.
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Posted On : 2023-06-30 23:36:36

Posted By : sarahsP7185IF
We had a wonderful day at the Embera Puru Village. Although it was rainy the dugout canoe ride (which is motored not paddled) Was a lovely ride and helped us disconnect from the communities we had just driven through. We were welcomed with song and warmly welcomed by the village leader. We had a delicious lunch and tour of the village and were able to participate in song and dance with the community. My two-year-old and five-year-old loved the experience and my husband and I did as well. It was a highlight of our trip to Panama and Costa Rica. The people were open and welcoming and althoughI did wonder if they felt coerced in someway to be a part of this tourism I left with the impression that they were not. I appreciated their willingness to allow visitors in and we bought mini craft items from the people there. I hope that my impression is correct and that these people truly enjoy sharing their culture with others. It is important for all of us in today’s world to open her eyes and experience different cultures and this was a great way for my family to do that
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Posted On : 2020-02-02 14:58:00

Posted By : blkdolfin
Went to the Katuma Embera village. It was simply joyful. Met the Headman, his grandson and family. My friend danced with them, we both got tats and had a lovely traditional meal of fish and pantecones. I loved one of the skirts worn and the lady took it off so I could buy it!
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Posted On : 2019-11-18 12:18:17

Posted By : James B
A private Embera village tour is an opportunity which should not be missed. We left our cruise ship at Gatun Lake, took about a 30 minute bus ride, then about a 30 minute river trip in a dugout canoe, finally arriving at the village. About 30-40 of the village residents (adults and children) were on hand to welcome us and and spend time with us during the 1-2 hours that we were there. It was quite interesting to see how the villagers live and to learn about their customs. Included in the tour was a luncheon of fresh fish and plantains, both of which were prepared by the villagers in the manner in which they prepare their own food. In addition, a large assortment of handicrafts were available for purchase. The tour was greatly enhanced by Jose, our guide, who has spent considerable time with the villagers.
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Posted On : 2019-01-15 15:01:23

Posted By : Julie R
This excursion was AMAZING!!! I would highly recommend this excursion to Embera Village! The people are so warm and welcoming and the crafts they make are so beautiful. It was amazing to see how simply they lived. I would highly recommend visiting the Embera village. I will never forget this experience!
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Posted On : 2018-12-05 12:57:35

Posted By : Teresa H
Juan was our guide and Alex was our driver from Panama Excursions. We were promptly picked up at the cruise ship tender dock in Fuerte Amador. Juan was very pleasant, talkative and full of stories with humour. He was very entertaining for our drive to the put in for the canoes. Unfortunately there was road work (repaving) and the drive took longer both ways, however, we were not delayed at all. Our canoe trip was enjoyable, good to wear hats, sunglasses and lots of sunscreen or protective clothing. Onto the Alhajueta Lake we boarded a motorized dug out canoe and travelled up past the Pararu Puru village and down the Changres River to a side stream and walk in the jungle to a scenic waterfall and swimming pool at the base of the falls. The trail was rough but a lot of fun, crossing the stream and up and over slippery steep rocks. Juan showed us where to stand under the falls for a supper massage. Returning by the rough trail and to the village where we were welcomed by the locals in colourful costumes. After a demonstration of local woods and foods in a comfortable building on stilts with bamboo floor we had lunch served in a palm leaf of fish and plantain, local fruits and juice or water. Time to view the local crafts for sale and a demonstration of local dance with an opportunity to join in. Back the same way we came with views of the impressive skyline of the city and some sights. We were back at the port on time as promised after an excellent tour.
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Posted On : 2018-11-03 15:56:08

Posted By : Ray H
Wife and I had a great time visiting the waterfall and visiting the villagers to learn more about their culture and way of life. Highly recommend this tour,
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Posted On : 2018-08-31 14:20:20

Posted By : zeemak1
i arranged for a private tour from my hotel. Reason was that people in panama city and specially Embera community doesn't speak much English so without a private tour guide who speaks decent English it may have been harder to understand their culture. When you arrive in their community area, you have to take a boat thru the river to their village. Very peaceful boat ride as you are in the middle of the forest. Then they also take you to waterfalls. small waterfall but beautiful. untapped by man. natural beauty all around you. In the village they share their culture and their delicious food. Its interesting to see how they make almost everything they use in daily life from the resources around them - mother nature.
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Posted On : 2018-08-21 16:32:08

Posted By : stellablue32
We hired a private guide to take us to the Embera village. The driver secured food and beverages for us before meeting us at our hotel at 9 am. From the financial district, the drive to the Chagres River was approximately 75 minutes. We were met at the boat launch by two Embera tribesmen in a wooden canoe. They provided life jackets and paddled us across the river to their village. We were greeted with traditional music and a brief tour then re-boarded the canoe to make our way further into the jungle. It was peaceful and beautiful. Once deep into the rainforest, we anchored the canoe and trekked through the jungle to a beautiful waterfall where we spent an hour splashing in the water and taking photos. WARNING: it is a rainforest and the rain makes for a very slippery hike so wear shoes with traction. When we returned to the village, the tribeswomen prepared the MOST DELICIOUS lunch of fried fish, plantains and many varieties of locally grown fruit. After lunch, the villagers performed several traditional dances and offered many hand-made items for purchase. We paid our guide ($480) for our family of four. He handled all of the payments to the tribe as well as the acquisition of food. The Embera gave an educational presentation about their village to the other visitors, but we never received it notwithstanding our guide's reassurance that we would receive the same presentation after the other group left the village. We returned to our hotel by 3 pm. In retrospect, I wish we would have negotiated a lesser rate AND inquired about what percentage of the fee was paid to the village. I certainly hope that our guide was fair and generous to the indigenous people.
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Posted On : 2018-03-31 09:04:26

Posted By : ccbarb1
The Embera people live in an isolated area apparently only reachable by dugout canoe. They were very welcome to us and showed us their living quarters and fed us delicious food. Although I don't usually like "native shows", the people felt open and honest. Several foreigners were living there with them for short periods of time, ostensibly for some quiet R and R and meditation--which one would get there. They served us a meal of fish and plantain, which was delicious! It's amazing to think that they have withstood the onslaught of civilization--even their youth who venture into the cities for education return to live there. Very peaceful. Oh, and their handicrafts (baskets, carvings) were well done and certainly less expensive than in town
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Posted On : 2018-03-10 15:43:41